disappeared, and now the traveller finds great floating hotels, run to maintain, in comfort and fidelity to schedule time, a successful rivalry with the modern railroad service. Their appointments are no longer barbaric, their accommodations no longer uncomfortable, their voyages no longer invitations to disaster and sudden death. By day, they sweep by the base of the echoing hihs or into the open river reaches with a dignity of presence and a majesty of motion that fit well with their surroundings; and, by night, the inquisitive eye of the almost omniscient search-light explores the secrets of the sleeping shores. But it discovers no one ready to stand amazed at this or any other marvel, as the villagers and boatmen did when Fulton directed the little Clermont up the stream a century ago, and filled the night with corruscations of fat pine sparks, and the quiet sleepy hamlets with the rattle and splash of his primitive engine.

Chapter X Riverside to Inwood

mere RIVERSIDE PARK has been called "the aggrandiseme nt of a road." In a sense that is true and yet the aggrandisement of such a road in such a way suggests the embellishment of a book by extra illustration, till the original volume appreciates in value beyond computation. From 7 2d Street to 130th Street, between Eleventh and Twelfth Avenues -- the latter near the river level -- Riverside Drive winds over hill and dale for three miles. There are few roads in the world that can compare with it. Every turn is a revelation of natural beauty and every hillock is crowned with some historic association.