The old Dutch church, with its pointed roof and great window of painted glass, stood at that time at the foot of State Street. At Troy, where we took tea, there were only a dozen houses, the place having been settled only three years before by people from Killingworth, Saybrook, and other towns in Connecticut. Lansingburg was an older and more considerable town, containing more than a hundred houses, and inhabited principally by emigrants from the same State. The tavern was a very good one, but the inhabitants were so hospitable to our party that the

554 The Hudson River

time was spent almost entirely in private houses. After a delay of two nights and a day we proceeded on our journey. Crossing the Hudson to Waterford by a ferry, we went back as far as the Mohawk to see the Cohoes falls, of which we had a fine view from the northern bank, riding along the brow of the precipice in going and returning. On the road to the Mohawk we met a party of some of the most respectable citizens of Albany -- among whom was the patroon Van Rensselaer -- in a common country waggon without a cover, with straw under their feet and wooden chairs for seats. Two gentlemen on horseback, in their company, finding that we were going to Saratoga, offered to accompany us to the scene of the battle of Behmus Heights, and thither we proceeded after visiting Cohoes. We dined in the house which was General Burgoyne's headquarters in 1777 and one of the females who attended us was there during the battle.